Monday, July 18, 2011

Water-in-Oil Cream with Urea

Urea is naturally found in the skin and serves as its natural moisturizer. When skin cells become hard and dry, it exposes and unloads their water binding sites, allowing these cells to retain and absorb moisture. This mechanism is called hydrotropic solubilization and has been proven effective through independent clinical trials. Urea applied in skin alone does not feel good for most people, but with this recipe, it is coupled with other potent nutrients like polyglyceryl oleate, grapeseed oil, and polyglucose to deliver optimum moisture. Feel its silky smoothness when you apply this lotion!

Ingredients:                             Weight (%)         1 cup/240 ml.

Phase A

Polyglyceryl oleate                    5%                     2 ½ tsp./12 ml.

Grapeseed oil                          17%                    2 ½ tbsp./41 ml.

Polyglucose                            0.4%                       ¼ tsp./1 ml.

Beeswax                                0.6%                    1/3 tsp./1.4 gm.

Phase B

Sodium chloride (table salt)      0.5%                    ½ tsp./1.2 gm.

Deionized water                    55.5%                    9 tbsp./133 ml.

Phase C

Urea                                     10%                      8 tsp./24 gm.

Deionized water                     10%                      5 tsp./24 ml.

Phase D

Paraben-DU                           1%                        ½ tsp./24 ml.

Fragrance                              q.s.

Procedure:
In a clean double boiler, mix all ingredients of phase A and heat to approximately 80°C. While stirring, gradually add phase B ingredients until even. Remove from heat and cool mixture by stirring gently. When it reaches 40°C, add phase C ingredients. Stir further and add phase D ingredients. Homogenize when it reaches below 30°C. Pour into sterilized jars.


References:

"Free Formulas for Cosmetics and Skin Care." Cosmetic Ingredients Supply - MakingCosmetics.com Inc.

MakingCosmetics Inc., n.d. Web. 15 July 2011.

"UREA - Nature's own skin moisturizer" Dermal Therapy Moisturizers. Dermal Therapy, n.d. Web. 15 July 2011.

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